Through Snow & Ice: Swiss Alpine Rail Journeys II

The Albula Railway rightly deserves its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For over 120 years, it has been the lifeline connecting Thusis and the glamorous St Moritz. Running alongside the Albula torrent, the railway passes through the spectacular Schyn Gorge, an ancient north-south link between the Mediterranean and Northern Europe that was already used by the Celts and Romans. Passengers are in for a journey of superlatives: the Solis Viaduct is the highest on the Rhaetian Railway, whilst the Landwasser Viaduct is considered by many to be the most beautiful. Travellers experience a picture-postcard idyll, once the setting for the Swiss film classic ‘Heidi’. Between Bergün and Preda, the Albula Railway climbs more than 400 metres in altitude via viaducts, spiral tunnels and hairpin bends – a masterpiece of engineering that offers views of one of Switzerland’s longest toboggan runs. After the Albula Tunnel, the railway reaches the Upper Engadine and passes the world’s oldest natural ice bobsleigh run, which is still in use today and is also open to visitors. And finally, at the end of their journey on the Albula Railway, passengers arrive at the icon of sophisticated winter sports: St. Moritz.

The Wengernalp Railway takes passengers on a spectacular journey to the foot of the Alps’ most famous trio: the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. At 19 kilometres, it is the world’s longest continuous rack railway and serves as an indispensable lifeline for the region. From the mystical Lauterbrunnen Valley, it climbs high above the winter sports resort of Wengen and the enchanting Wengernalp to over 2,000 metres above sea level. But from the other side too, from Grindelwald, a route leads up to the Kleine Scheidegg pass – one might also call it the antechamber to the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. Passing the Alpiglen mountain inn, the journey winds its way up the sheer face of the Eiger, leaving both passengers and onlookers in awe. The Wengernalp Railway has been an institution since 1892. People live along the railway line, their way of life shaped by the region and its topography. Take the legendary Lauterbrunnen Valley, which is said to have once inspired J.R.R. Tolkien to write his *Lord of the Rings* trilogy; today it is a mecca for base jumpers and bears the inglorious nickname ‘Valley of Death’. Grindelwald, once and now the cradle of Swiss alpine tourism, remains the starting point for daring ascents of the Eiger North Face. Will they succeed this time in carving a new route into the rock in memory of deceased mountaineers?

The Lötschberg–Simplon axis has been one of Europe’s most important railway lines for over a hundred years, linking Bern with the Valais and Domodossola in Italy. The historic Lötschberg Railway takes passengers from Spiez along Lake Thun into the Bernese Oberland and into a breathtaking Alpine landscape. Passing steep rock faces, deep valleys and traditional mountain villages, a journey full of contrasts and spectacular views begins. From Frutigen, the route climbs steadily, reaching Kandersteg – one of Switzerland’s best-known mountain villages. This is where the centrepiece of the historic Alpine crossing begins: the Lötschberg Tunnel. When it opened in 1913, it was regarded as a masterpiece of engineering and a symbol of the link between north and south across the Alps. After passing through the tunnel, a completely new landscape opens up on the Valais side. The famous Lötschberg southern ramp winds its way down into the valley towards Brig in sweeping bends, offering spectacular views of the Rhône Valley and the surrounding four-thousand-metre peaks at every turn. Countless viaducts, spiral tunnels and bridges cling to the steep mountain slopes, making the route one of Switzerland’s most impressive railway lines to this day. These boldly designed structures bear witness to the visionary planning of their builders. Along the route, alpine landscapes, sun-drenched Valais slopes and historic villages alternate. Palm trees and an Italian atmosphere herald the arrival in Domodossola – the gateway to Piedmont and the crowning glory of one of Europe’s most beautiful rail journeys.

The dream of a direct rail link from Lake Geneva to Lucerne is over 100 years old. In 2023, the connection to Interlaken became a reality. This is where a unique journey begins, taking in lakes and rivers, snow-covered mountain passes and deep gorges, all the way to Switzerland’s most beautiful Riviera. Interlaken, nestled between Lake Brienz and Lake Thun, has been regarded as the gateway to the Bernese Oberland since the Belle Époque. The Golden Pass Express follows Lake Thun as far as Spiez, passing the striking Niesen, considered Switzerland’s highest pyramid. The route then turns south into the Simmental valley. In Zweisimmen, something truly unique happens: thanks to a spectacular track-changing system, the carriages automatically switch from standard gauge to narrow gauge. It is this technology that, since 2023, has made it possible to travel directly to Lake Geneva without changing trains. In winter, the Saanenland reveals its glamorous side. Around Gstaad, alpine tradition meets the international jet set. The legendary Le Rosey boarding school opens its doors exclusively to visitors. Beyond the so-called “Röstigraben”, not only does the canton change, but so does the language. In the French-speaking part of the route, you can discover well-known cheeses, famous artists and colourful hot-air balloons. The journey concludes with a spectacular descent down to Montreux: past vineyards, with views of Lake Geneva and a hint of spring, even in the middle of winter.