Through Snow & Ice: Swiss Alpine Rail Journeys

For about 120 years, the Bernina route has dazzled travelers, winding from the remote Engadine over the Bernina Pass, through the Poschiavo Valley to Tirano in Italy. In just two hours, you’ll traverse from the heart of snow and ice into the first blush of spring. This journey is a passage through landscapes, climates and cultures, moving from the crisp, alpine air to the sun-kissed south. It’s a voyage of striking contrasts: from fearless ice climbers scaling frozen waterfalls to passionate winter campers and dedicated glacier researchers captivated by the power of ice and snow. The harsh winter conditions are a constant challenge for the train crew: The descent from Alp Grüm drops 1,800 meters towards spring, with the landscape gradually transforming, a mediterranean atmosphere beginning to bloom. Meet a pasta artisan, a mountain farmer and swiss olive oil producer, as the train winds south through the unique Brusio circular viaduct, and reaches its destination Tirano, a town rich with baroque churches and magnificent palazzi.

For 110 years, the Arosa Railway has been a vital lifeline from Chur, the capital of Graubünden, to the renowned winter resort of Arosa, chugging along at a modest 30 km/h. The journey begins as a tram gliding through the historic streets of Chur, before transforming into a mountain railway. It travels over breathtaking viaducts, past cascading waterfalls and wild streams, steadily climbing toward the snow-clad peaks of Arosa. Today, Arosa is one of Switzerland’s most beloved winter sports destinations. Tucked away at the end of the long Schanfigg Valley, it was once accessible only by treacherous mule paths. But with the opening of the Arosa Railway in 1914, the world came knocking. Yet, the people here have fiercely preserved their craft, traditions, and an endearing eccentricity. The journey through Schanfigg, with the father-daughter conductor duo Hans-Peter and Flavia Thöny, is rich with special moments: the fiery glow of sunrise, the majestic Langwieser Viaduct, or the traditional art of making dried meat called “Bündnerfleisch”. At the journey’s end, a chilling surprise awaits that will set your pulse racing.

For nearly a century, the Glacier Express has been the pinnacle of luxury rail travel, gliding between the elite ski resorts of St. Moritz and Zermatt. The journey in the lavishly appointed Excellence Class leaves nothing to be desired: whether it’s the impeccable service, the plush comfort, or the spectacular views. From the monastery town of Disentis, the train, powered by rack-and-pinion, climbs over alpine passes and through snow-draped landscapes, until it reaches the foot of the Matterhorn. At the highest point of the journey, a surprising sight awaits: a lighthouse in the midst of the Alps. After a dramatic descent, the train arrives in Andermatt, a village that has evolved from a military outpost into a chic destination for the global jet set. As the train winds through the Valais, you trace the legacy of hotel magnate César Ritz, the pioneer of luxury hospitality, and admire the highest vineyard north of the Alpine divide. Past ominous avalanche chutes, the train snakes toward its final stop, arriving in glittery Zermatt, perfectly timed for the après-ski revelry.

The funiculars of Schatzalp and Parsenn in the winter sports haven of Davos offer more than just a ride: they are time machines transporting their passengers right back to a bygone era. From Europe’s highest city, these cable cars pull you through an alpine winter wonderland, leading to an ancient Grand hotel and one of the oldest snow research stations on earth. The Schatzalp Railway is among the oldest in Switzerland, a testament to tradition and engineering that still captivates today. It’s reverence for the past is echoed in the craftsmanship of the historic Davos sleds, lovingly maintained by a new generation of artisans. The Parsenn Railway, on the other hand, offers a thrilling adventure including a daring rescue exercise high above the slopes, that will test the nerves of avalanche dog Emma, while workers scramble to clear the ice from the tracks in time for the trains. At the summit, you’re treated to a host of highlights: a ballet of snowcats, a stay in an igloo hotel, and the magic of a moonlit descent on skis.